Wednesday, 24 June 2015

A day off

Today is a day off from my regular job at the bicycle shop so of course I was kilted. In the photo below I'm wearing a lightweight Blackwatch kilt ( not very Jacobite - but it's cooler than some of my other kilts ) , my straight lasted 1758 latchet shoes which have been converted to ties instead of buckles with a pair of home made moggans , tartan footless bag hose ( I need to make some footed hose sometime instead ) , long white puff sleeve cotton shirt with neck stock and my new linen split back tartan waist coat from Cogle historical tailoring . I'm also wearing a grey felt bonnet that I made although the headband needs re sizing to give it a better fit. Even though the temperature today is about 28 deg I'm quite comfortable , but maybe the hot weather in August will really put me to the test.  Please excuse the modern white fence

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Cogle Historical tailoring

In 2014 I decided that I would like to find a tailor to make me a highland short coat and after trying several online listed historical tailors with no luck ( none of them e mailed me back at all ) , I them stumbled upon the following website from the USA after looking through their photo gallery and seeing how authentic they looked I contacted them in hope of finding their groups tailor. Not only did one of their members  get in touch with me ,but he also forwarded my inquiry to Hunter Cogle who does historical tailoring for a living and is very familiar with the Jacobite period as he is a historical reenactor himself along with his wife Breanna . After several e mails back and forth discussing details ,such as which tartan and viewing samples of the different cuff styles . I placed an order for a highland short coat.  After Hunter has received my measurements I then received in the mail a mock up of the jacket made from muslin so I could check to see if it fit and could then inform Hunter if any changes needed to be made. Once Hunter has received the mock up back the turn around time is about 4 months or so depending on how busy they are.

So first up lets take a look at the highland short coat, the entire coat is made from tartan woven on the Isle of Harris in Scotland, it is also fully lined with linen with working pockets and 4 button cuffs with navy blue wool facing . All the button holes are hand stitched and all the buttons are tartan fabric ball buttons . The pockets have non buttoning flaps but are nice and deep so their is plenty of room to carry something if needed . The overall fit of the coat is perfect and the back also has 3 pleated gussets to allow the feileadh Mor to be worn underneath.

As you can see from above the highland short coat is a period correct item of clothing, this is how clothes were made in the 18th century and is designed to be worn and used. Hunter and his wife Breanna take a lot of pride in their work and it shows in the items they produce. 

The highland waistcoat is of the same type of construction as the coat, at first I only wanted a coat but seeing the quality of Hunters work I decided to order a matching waistcoat as well. The waist coat uses the same tartan fabric ball buttons as the coat and has nice deep pockets similar to the coat. , it is fully lined with linen and the back is made from linen with a split back with fixes together with linen ties.  This is another high quality item and together they look fantastic. The waist coat like the coat is a perfect fit and very comfortable to wear. 

If you are looking for some authentic 18th century clothes and in particular Jacobite period clothing, I would highly recommend Cogle Historical tailoring. They know what they are talking about, both being reenactors themselves and they have studied the period clothing the reproduce in detail and are very helpful when placing an order with them. 

Another new sporran

New Sporran - a while back before I learnt to make sporrans myself, I ordered a replica 1745 period sporran from a fellow member of the Facebook group - Jacobite Rising Reenactors of which I am a member. The sporran pictured below was made by Cal MacGregor in Germany and based on the example in the picture below who is Sir Stuart Threipland of Fingask by William Delacour.

Physician of Prince Charles Edward Stuart during the '45

Saturday, 13 June 2015

Hand made sporran review

Hi Everyone

As a kilt wearer now for quite some time I have always worn sporrans and recently with my new found leather craft skills I finally got around to making my first ever sporran. The pattern that I used was taken from the net , and the maker a Scot now living in Australia claims it was a copy that he saw in the Kelvin Grove museum in Glasgow. As I've never visited the museum he mentions I can not back up his claim  but liked the style so made one for myself.

I had been given a large roll of what I think was pigskin suede which was a light color but after cutting out the 5 pieces and hand stitching the front leather support and the back , front flap ( these pieces need   to be thicker to give support to the final shape ) I used a water based brown leather dye. Color wise it turned out fine in the end but next time I will find the correct color suede to start with which will make thinks easy. Pictured below are all the pieces cut out prior to dying the leather brown .

The gusset that gives the sporran it's width needed to be joined together , but one long piece would be better next time. After hand stitching the front support and the back onto the main parts I then dyed it brown. These support parts were made up of double leather , but a separate piece of thicker leather would be better , but I was making use of the leather I had in stock rather than buying something new.

It it constructed but sewing the entire sporran inside out and then once finished you can turn it out, this can only be achieved when using a soft leather as a hard leather would make it too difficult to turn out. Holes are punched into the leather for the top drawstring , the front support panel and the back for a belt loop. This sporran can be worn either directly from a kilt belt or it can hang from a separate belt. For the button I ended up making a wooden button with a thick leather supporter underneath to give room for the leather cord. Instead of a wooden button you could use a slice of antler or even make a leather knot called a turks head.

I'm pretty happy with the results of my 1st ever sporran and learnt a lot , so I'm sure the next one will be even better. . For those of you who want to make your own one here is the link to the instructions or if you contact me I'd be happy to sell you one. 



Thursday, 4 June 2015

A private of the 78th Fraser Highlanders

A private soldier of the 78th Fraser Highlanders with some of the kit he would have carried. Their language, dress and Highland weaponry set them apart from Wolfe's regular battalions and he used them whenever steadfast troops were required, whether it was at the Battle of Montmorency or in the front firing line on the Plains of Abraham.